【生活】上海年輕人開始流行吃食堂_風聞

【來源龍騰網】

正文原創翻譯：

Inside a canteen for seniors in downtown Shanghai, a worker brandishing a sponge inched closer to Maggie Xu, 29, as she was finishing her rice and garlic-and-oil-soaked broccoli. Ms. Xu ignored her.

上海市中心一家老年食堂裏，29歲的瑪吉·徐馬上就要吃完她的米飯和蒜茸西蘭花了，清潔工手持海綿慢慢向她坐的地方擦過來。徐女士沒有理會她。

“If you come at 12 o’clock, the aunties will give you less food,” Ms. Xu said, speaking softly. After 1:30 p.m., they give away soup. They also start to hover — like the auntie with the sponge — hurrying laggards out the door.

“你如果12點下來，阿姨打菜會少，”徐女士輕聲説道。下午1點30分後，她們會發放免費的湯。她們也會像那名清潔工那樣，開始逼近那些來得晚的人，讓他們快點離開。

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Ms. Xu is familiar with the rhythms of the Tongxinhui Community Canteen because she eats there every day to save money. She has a good job as an accountant at a foreign firm, but she can’t shake a creeping sense of unease about her future.

徐女士很熟悉同心薈社區食堂的節奏，因為為了省錢，她每天都在這裏吃飯。雖然她在一家外企有一份不錯的會計工作，但她對自己的未來總有點無法擺脱的不安全感。

“Only when you save money will you feel safe,” she said.

“存錢才會感覺到安全感，”她説。

In these tough economic times in China, many young people are jobless, but they aren’t the only anxious ones. A devastating crash in the value of real estate, where most household wealth is tied up, has heightened a feeling among young working professionals like Ms. Xu that their situation is precarious, too.

中國現在的經濟狀況不佳，許多年輕人找不到工作，但焦慮的不只是他們。房價的毀滅性暴跌已加劇了人們的不安全感，因為中國家庭的大多數財富與房地產掛鈎。就連像徐女士這樣的年輕職業人士也覺得自己的情況不穩定。

In Shanghai, some people are finding relief at subsidized community centers that once served mostly seniors but are now also drawing younger crowds. The food is affordable and plentiful. The plates on offer, sometimes as cheap as $1.40, are crammed with local specialties like shredded eel with hot oil, steamed pork ribs or red braised pork belly.

上海的一些人正在從有政府補貼的社區中心尋求救濟，這些中心以前主要為老年人服務，但現在也吸引了更年輕的人羣。社區食堂的價格實惠，菜品豐富。有很多帶有地方特色的菜，便宜的只要十塊錢，如響油鱔絲、蒸排骨、紅燒肉。

Similar to soup kitchens, the canteens are privately run but subsidized by China’s ruling communist Party and cater to older residents who are too frail to cook or are homebound, offering discounted meals and delivery services.

與（西方為窮人免費提供食物的）施食處類似，中國的社區食堂由私人經營。社區食堂為身體虛弱不能自己做飯或不能出門的老年居民提供打折餐和送餐服務。

At the canteen where Ms. Xu likes to eat, diners who are 70 or older are given a 15 percent discount. The canteen is part of a three-story party community center that opened in May.

在徐女士喜歡吃飯的那個食堂，70歲以上的用餐者享受15%的折扣。這個食堂位於去年5月開業的一棟三層樓的社區黨羣服務中心裏。

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As neighbors and workers from nearby shops and small offices pack into the canteen for lunch and dinner, collapsible dining tables and plastic chairs are quickly assembled, spilling out into the building entrance to accommodate grumbling bellies.

午餐和晚餐時段，食堂裏擠滿了來吃飯的社區居民和在附近的商店和小型辦公室工作的人，快速組裝起來的摺疊餐桌和塑料椅子一直襬到了樓的入口處。

During the lull between meals, older residents sit in the entrance, chatting and passing the time. A giant sickle-and-hammer ceiling light glows, reminding diners of the landlord.

在非用餐時段，老年居民們坐在裏面聊天，打發時間。天花板上巨型鐮刀錘頭形狀的燈提醒着人們誰是房子的主人。

More recently, community canteens have emerged as part of a broader social welfare initiative to improve food services for a swiftly aging population.

而在近期，社區食堂是作為一個更廣泛的社會福利項目的一部分出現的，目的是為迅速老齡化的人口改進膳食服務。

There are 6,000 local groups running community canteens around the country, according to the official xinhua news service. In Shanghai, where nearly one-fifth of the population is 65 or older, there are more than 305 community canteens. Many of them get tax breaks and low or free rent.

據官方的新華社報道，有6000個地方組織在全國各地經營社區食堂。上海有近20%的人口年齡在65歲以上，那裏的社區食堂已超過305個。其中許多得到税收減免、低租金或免租金的補貼。

But the canteens have become an important fixture for Shanghai’s younger working population, too. The portions are often so generous that they can be stretched out over several meals, and diners can often be seen packing away dishes they haven’t finished.

但這些社區食堂也已成為上海年輕打工族常去的一個重要場所。食堂給的菜量往往很大，可以分幾頓吃，經常能看到食客們把沒吃完的菜打包帶走。

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The cost-saving impetus stems from a reluctance to spend that has become so common among Chinese people that it is contributing to the country’s economic problems and prompting top officials to talk with a sense of urgency about promoting confidence.

省錢的動力源於中國老百姓不願花錢，這個相當普遍的問題已成為中國經濟疲軟的原因之一。

If there is one thing that Deng Chunlong, 31, is missing right now, it’s confidence. Mr. Deng’s personal-training business has suffered. Some clients have stopped going to his studio altogether. Others sign up for a third of the classes they used to, he said.

如果説31歲的鄧春龍現在缺少什麼的話，那就是信心了。鄧先生的私人健身教練業務已受到影響。一些客户已不再來他的工作室了。他説，其他人報名參加的課程數量只有以前的三分之一。

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Mr. Deng, who is tall with unruly hair, has been eating cheaper food at the community canteen in Jing’an, a district of Shanghai, to reduce his spending. He recently stopped renting an apartment and sleeps in his Pilates studio.

鄧先生身材高大，頭髮有點蓬亂，他一直在上海靜安區的社區食堂吃便宜飯，以節省開支。他最近停止了續租公寓，改為在自己的普拉提工作室睡覺。

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“I feel that business is not as easy as before,” he said between bites of cauliflower and pork. “It feels like people are not willing to spend as much.”

“感覺生意沒有以前那麼好做了，”他一邊吃着肉片炒花椰菜，一邊説。“感覺消費者沒有那麼多錢，他們願意在上面支付的錢沒有以前那麼多了。”

When Mr. Deng discovered the canteen a year ago, it had mostly older customers, he said, but the clientele has since expanded. “There are many young people now,” he said.

鄧先生説，他一年前發現這家食堂時，裏面的顧客大多是老年人，但顧客羣體後來擴大了。“現在感覺年輕人很多，”他説。

In some neighborhoods, the young stand alongside older people, forming lines that sometimes stretch onto the street. The customers find the community canteens listed on restaurant apps and on social media platforms, where people also share tips about which dishes are the tastiest and the cheapest.

在一些社區食堂裏，年輕人和老年人一起排隊，長長的隊伍有時一直延伸到街上。顧客在找飯館手機應用和社交媒體平台上能找到社區食堂，還有人在這些平台上分享秘訣：哪道菜最好吃，哪道菜最便宜。

“Young people who are not very wealthy for the time being must visit Shanghai community canteens,” one person wrote on xiaohongshu, an app similar to Instagram. Another person described the canteens as a “happy home for the poor.”

“暫時不太富裕的年輕人一定要去上海社區食堂，”一名用户在（類似於Instagram的應用程序）小紅書上寫道。另一名用户把社區食堂描述為“窮人的幸福之家”。

It was by scrolling on Dianping, a Chinese food app, that Charles Liang, 32, discovered Tianping Community Canteen in the upscale Shanghai neighborhood of Xuhui.

現年32歲的查爾斯·梁（音）在瀏覽中國美食應用大眾點評時發現了位於上海高檔社區徐彙區的天平街道社區食堂。

From the outside, the canteen looks more like a modern restaurant, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a red brick facade. Inside, the plastic blue boxes overflowing with colorful and dirtied plastic plates give the place more of a cafeteria vibe.

這個食堂從外面看更像是一家現代化餐廳，有落地窗和紅磚外牆。食堂裏面，裝滿了食客用過的各種顏色塑料盤子的藍色塑料箱使其更像是自助餐廳。

“I tend to save money,” said Mr. Liang, an independent graphic and clothing designer who said finding work had become harder. A two-month Covid lockdown across Shanghai in 2022 also weighed on his outlook, he said, making him more ambivalent about his future and cautious about his finances.

“我傾向於存錢，”梁先生説，他是從事平面和服裝設計的獨立工作者，他説找工作已變得越來越難。他説，那件事也加重了他對前景的悲觀看法，讓他對自己的未來有更多的矛盾情緒，對自己的財務狀況更加謹慎。

Mr. Liang said he ate regularly at the canteen, which opened in 2020. On this particular evening, when he arrived for dinner, every table was full. One man in a three-piece suit sat down with a tray filled with dishes and began to partition food into plastic takeout containers. Nearly everyone ate quickly and left.

梁先生説，他經常在這個食堂吃飯，食堂是2020年開業的。具體到他來吃飯的那個晚上，他到食堂時，每張桌子都已坐滿人。一名身穿三件套西裝的男子端着一個裝滿菜盤的托盤坐下來後，開始將食物分裝到塑料容器中帶走。幾乎所有人都吃得很快，然後很快離開。

As Mr. Liang was finishing his meal, the dinner crowd began to thin out and some of the canteen’s servers and chefs sat down to eat. One of the servers, Li Cuiping, 61, a migrant worker from the central Chinese province of Henan, said she had been serving people in the canteen for half a year and had noticed more young people in recent months. “Everyone is welcome,” she said.

梁先生快吃完時，吃飯的人已經不多了，食堂的一些服務員和廚師也開始坐下來吃飯。其中一名服務員叫李翠萍（音），現年61歲，是來自中國中部河南省的農民工。她説，她已在食堂工作了半年，最近幾個月注意到來吃飯的年輕人越來越多。“人人都歡迎，”她説。

On a recent Wednesday at another canteen, near Jiangsu Road in the Changning district, a worker known as Fatty Yao was busy clearing more than a dozen empty blue and white dishes left by a group of young office workers. The canteen was serving more young people like that group, he said.

最近的一個週三，在長寧區江蘇路附近的另一個社區食堂裏，一名外號“胖姚子”的工人正在忙着收拾一羣年輕上班族留下來的十幾個藍白相間的空盤子。他説，這個食堂正在為更多像這羣剛走的人那樣的年輕人服務。

The dishes had been left by Qiu Long, 24, and five of his colleagues who worked together at a lighting design company about a 10-minute walk down the road. Mr. Long and his colleagues said they had started eating at the canteen only a week ago.

那些盤子是24歲的龍邱和他的五名同事留在那裏的，他們在一家照明設計公司工作，公司距離食堂走路大約10分鐘。龍先生和他的同事説，他們一週前才開始在食堂吃飯。

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They kept returning, though, because it was cheaper and offered more variety than other eateries nearby, many of which Mr. Long said tended to go out of business after a few months.

但他們已經成了回頭客，因為食堂比附近的其他餐館更便宜，菜品也更多。許多小餐館常常在開張幾個月後就倒閉了，龍先生説。

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“I think for working people,” Mr. Long said, “the canteen is a more affordable place to eat.”

“我覺得對於工作人而言，那種食堂就像在學校一樣會吃的比較實惠的，”龍先生説。